Following on from my last post Sensatio Paris – The brand of the Perrin brothers, today I would like to present the three extraits de parfum Black Sesame, Hypnotic Flower and Cumbawa Wood. Three very different creations that revolve around culinary delicacies of all kinds. They have all been created by Robertet perfumers from the highest quality, carefully selected raw materials. In addition to Manon Coen, who was also involved in the development of Golden Pistachio, Serge de Oliveira, whose olfactory work I know and particularly appreciate from Atelier Oblique, Room 1015, L’Atelier Parfum, Bon Parfumeur, Carrière Frères and many more, was also creatively at work.
Black Sesame – Freshly baked chocolate brioche
Black Sesame is a creation dedicated to the baking skills of Mama Perrin. We remember that the two brothers David and Sacha Perrin founded the niche fragrance label Sensatio Paris. The former has been in the perfume business for a long time and also founded the Nectar Olfactif brand (highly recommended! Click here for my reviews). Sacha works in gourmet gastronomy and currently cooks at the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris.
With the Extrait de Parfum Black Sesame, the two brothers pay tribute to their mother’s chocolate brioches, freshly baked of course. The fragrance is intended to evoke memories of childhood, as it does for David and Sacha. The ingredients mandarin, raspberry, chocolate, amaretto, rose, orange blossom, tuberose, iris, sesame, coffee, vanilla, woods, ambergris and musk hint at something delicious. The perfumer of the creation is Serge de Oliveira.
Black Sesame is the scent that conjures up our childhood memories, like our own Madeleine de Proust. In our memories, our mother baked a delicious brioche for us, topped with chocolate and refined with roasted sesame seeds. The intoxicating aroma coming from the oven made us wonder about this delicacy and inspired us to create “Black Sesame”.
Black Sesame starts the fragrance with fine and fresh fruity nuances, accompanied by a light, airy rose sweetness. Tuberose and iris bring powdery floral nuances into play, while osmanthus provides velvety peach fruitiness. Dark, subtly bitter notes of roasted coffee beans, nutty sesame and dark chocolate lend the creation depth and exciting facets, into which the warm, comforting aspects of amber gradually flow. There is also a pinch of vanilla-crystalline musk powder, which gently and quietly trickles through the composition and rounds it off in a skillful and harmonious way.
Black Sesame totally surprises me. Because of course I was expecting a gourmand fragrance de luxe. But far from it. Instead, it is a light, airy, powdery-creamy and extremely cozy creation with fruity, floral and nutty-woody facets. Definitely not a classic gourmand – but then Golden Pistachio wasn’t. Elegant, modern and simply beautiful, this extrait de parfum is perfect for every occasion and every season. Wonderful!
Hypnotic Flower – Asia’s floral fragrances
Perfumer Manon Coen was responsible for the creative realization of Hypnotic Flower. A creation inspired by a trip to Asia. There, the Perrin brothers discovered numerous exotic flowers and were so captivated and enchanted by their indescribable scent that they left a lasting impression. The creation Hypnotic Flower is an olfactory monument to this. Manon Coen used the ingredients spices, leaf green, coconut, peach, jasmine, tuberose, rose, orange blossom, woods, labdanum (cistus) and vanilla.
Hypnotic Flower is soft, creamy and wonderfully beguiling thanks to milky coconut, velvety peach and smooth floral jasmine, which meet greenish-tart nuances. The tuberose underlines this with its typical notes, which – in view of its otherwise often effervescent and dominant temperament – behaves in a very mannerly and reserved manner. The fruity facets of peach are supported by orange blossom, which in turn naturally underlines the creaminess of jasmine, coconut and tuberose. Sweet, spicy and light woody notes skilfully round off the composition.
It is a very harmonious round dance that Hypnotic Flower offers us here. The fragrance notes go hand in hand. None of them stand out in particular, so the extrait de parfum by Sensatio Paris evokes a very harmonious, calm and creamy, milky floral fragrance that is sunny, summery and incredibly relaxed. A fragrance that I would therefore place more in the warmer season, but which can be worn here for any occasion. Perfect for anyone who likes creamy and unagitated floral fragrances with good presence and longevity. 🧡
Cumbawa Wood – Sensatio Paris
At first I didn’t know what to make of the name Cumbawa Wood. But a glance at the press release and then the all-knowing internet was enough to enlighten me. Cumbawa refers to the citrus fruit Citrus hystrix or kaffir lime, which is spelled Combawa in French. In no way related or related by marriage to the kaffir buffalo, which is native to Africa, the combawa originally comes from Asia and is often used for cooking here. In our part of the world, the citrus fruit is not necessarily a common kitchen staple. However, gourmet chef and brand founder Sacha Perrin certainly uses the combawa in his culinary creations. Incidentally, Asian cuisine uses the aromatic leaves of the kaffir lime in particular, but also the fruit, which contains relatively little juice. A popular combination is combawa and galangal, i.e. Thai ginger. It is therefore not surprising that both lime and ginger can be found in the fragrance notes. There is also lemon, black pepper, ylang-ylang, ozonic notes, patchouli, vetiver, cashmere wood and ambergris.
In Cumbawa Wood, tart, greenish citrus tanginess meets dry peppery spiciness and airy, maritime accents. Ylang-ylang brings milky floral and sweet nuances into play, which underline the lightness of the composition. The creation remains in this state for quite some time before the light, delicately earthy and woody notes of patchouli and vetiver slowly creep into the fragrance. Soft cashmere wood and velvety ambergris lend fluffy, soft aspects to the finish of the extrait de parfum.
Cumbawa Wood is a transparent, airy and fresh blend of citrus fruits, woods, spices and creamy, powdery nuances, which also has subtle marine notes. The composition has rather tart facets – especially in comparison to the other three creations – which is why I can also imagine Cumbawa Wood on men. Of course, the extrait de parfum, like the other three, is basically designed as a unisex fragrance. An uncomplicated and catchy companion for every occasion and every occasion, which I would wear all year round – with a tendency towards spring and summer. 💚
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