Burgundy Oud and Ambre Papier by Atelier Materi are the next two fragrances I would like to present to you. Yesterday I introduced you to Néroli Hasbaya – The New Extraits de Parfum by Atelier Materi, a creation that revolves around Lebanese pastries, orange blossom, neroli and pistachios. Today’s two creations are dedicated to the ever-popular fragrance oud and the incense Papier d’Arménie, reinterpreted by the brand in a new and modern way.
Burgundy Oud – Oud with a modern twist
Eaglewood – or oud – has been a staple in perfumery for decades. The incense wood is particularly popular in combination with roses, a duo that has been used almost inflationarily at times. I am delighted that Atelier Materi has opted for a different blend in Burgundy Oud.
The perfumer combines blackcurrant, cardamom, bergamot, geranium, magnolia, davana, eaglewood (oud), amyris and leather for the extrait de parfum. Fruits, flowers and woods are the ingredients of this creation, plus leather … that certainly sounds very promising.
A reinterpretation of oud wood with a modern Parisian touch that combines it with a red fruit. This fragrance is a beautiful meeting point between tradition and modernity, a bridge that connects the East and the West. – Veronique Le Bihan, founder of Atelier Materi
Dark, creaky leather meets the smoky, medicinal notes of eaglewood in Burgundy Oud, while fruity nuances in the background provide freshness and a certain sweetness. Incredibly present and powerful at first, the creation gradually calms down, even though the basic mood of the dark, smoky, leathery fragrance is still present. Airy, transparent and greenish-fresh accents appear as the fragrance progresses, lending lightness to eaglewood and leather.
Burgundy Oud is an incredibly exciting oud fragrance that is really fun. Powerful, lush, tart and even a little harsh at the beginning, the extrait de parfum becomes lighter, airier and fresher as it progresses, finally ending with warm, sweet amyris. Perfect for anyone who prefers smoky, leathery eagle wood compositions without overly intense sweetness and obvious floral notes. Also suitable for everyday wear and the office and can be worn at any time of year. Simply beautiful!
Ambre Papier – Atelier Materi
Our second candidate of the day is called Ambre Papier and is inspired by Papier d’Arménie or Armenian paper. This very paper dates back to the 19th century, but its origins are much older. A long time ago, it was customary in Armenia to perfume rooms with the resin of the benzoin tree. The French chemist Auguste Ponsot heard about this on a trip to Armenia and decided to bring the special scent of this incense to France. For ease of use, he developed the fragrant Papier d’Armenie as an air freshener and purifier, which has been produced by the same manufacturer in the same factory since its invention in the 19th century. Atelier Materi and Céline Perdriel pay homage to the traditional scented paper with ingredients such as black pepper, allspice, mandarin, jasmine, myrrh, mate, saffron, benzoin resin, vetiver and tonka bean.
A fruity, spicy mix of citrus fruits and pepper opens Ambre Papier, directly accompanied by the leathery, medicinal spice nuances of saffron. Powdery, creamy jasmine and the balsamic warmth of myrrh provide cozy moments and a certain airiness, into which the vanilla-like, milky facets of benzoin resin gradually flow. Very atmospheric and harmonious, very calm and relaxed, the extrait de parfum is both meditative and elegant, powerful and transparent, modern and yet classic. Tonka bean and vetiver underline the lovely, creamy, soft vanilla and saffron scents of this creation with their delicate and comforting nuances.
Ambre Papier is pure deceleration, a creation that is so calming, so beautiful that you want to lie down in it, let yourself go and simply enjoy it. I think it’s wonderful that the extrait is not overly sweet, but that the milky-creamy and spicy-soft nuances are wonderfully balanced. Personally, I particularly like the creation when the lush saffron notes gradually fade into the background and give way to balsamic, soft and comforting benzoin moments. Really great!
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