Just before our fall break – last week I spent a few days in Denmark with my family – I was invited to Hamburg. The launch of Palatine from Parfums de Marly was on the agenda, which I was of course particularly looking forward to. The location was the Villa im Heine-Park, located directly on the Elbchaussee in a beautiful green area with a view of Hamburg harbor.
The interior was all about Palatine, as you would expect. It wasn’t overloaded, which I found very nice, as this allowed the interior of the beautiful old Hamburg villa to really come into its own. The fragrance could be tested extensively in various places and instead of a wall of flowers, there was a large mirror and violet stands with Palatine coverings, which were of course perfect for selfies.
A representative of the Parfums de Marly brand introduced the fragrance to the assembled guests, which I will of course do later in this article. The room filled up as the evening progressed. Music provided by a live DJane and culinary delights of all kinds of finger food led to some exciting, interesting and funny conversations. It was a wonderful evening that I will remember for a long time to come.
Palatine – Parfums de Marly
But now to the fragrance itself, which – in my opinion – is already an absolute visual highlight. Dipped in beautiful violet, the classic women’s bottle of the brand with a penchant for noble horses, the 17th and 18th century France and the splendor of the baroque castle of Marly. Palatine is not dedicated to a horse, but to the Heidelberg-born Princess of the Palatinate, Elisabeth Charlotte, who was married to the brother of the Sun King Louis XIV and thus part of the French court.
Their marriage was not easy. It was not a love match but, as was customary at the time, politically motivated. In addition, her husband Duke Philippe d’Orleans was homosexual. Nevertheless, Lieselotte (as she was called from childhood) gave birth to three offspring. She enjoyed life at the court of the Sun King, often went hunting and to the theater with Louis XIV, was bright, well-read and interested in art, culture and science. She also had a significant influence on fashion. Her fur-trimmed cape collar called the Palatine, which she had brought with her from Germany, was soon the latest craze at the French court.
A name reminiscent of Princess Palatine, a sharp-witted, outspoken and direct princess who was a regular guest in the royal pavilion of the Chateau de Marly. All this embodies the eccentric and unconventional side of the Chateau de Marly. The fragrance emphasizes independence, self-confidence, freedom and at the same time pampers the wearer of Palatine.
I cannot say to what extent Lieselotte von der Pfalz was enthusiastic about violets. But it is precisely this flower that is the central component of the composition of Palatine from Parfums de Marly. The violet is combined with mandarin, bergamot, pear, lavender, magnolia, jasmine, rose, sandalwood, patchouli, musk and vanilla. The perfumers Hamid Merati-Kashani and Honorine Blanc were creative in their work.
Long live the violet
Anyone who thinks that Palatine is a classic violet fragrance is wrong. Of course, the violet flower plays a leading role in the fragrance, but at the beginning I perceive the tangy, fruity notes of citrus fruits and sweet pear. These are soon joined by the protagonist, powdery, floral and wonderfully soft, accompanied by subtly aquatic magnolia and the herbaceous freshness of lavender.
This makes an excellent addition to the fragrance and creates tension, liveliness and transparency. The rose also lends lightness to the eau de parfum, merging with the creamy nuances of lucid jasmine and delicately earthy patchouli, while the crystalline facets of vanilla musk and velvety sandalwood gradually pave the way to the base. Creamy-powdery, airy and fluffy-soft, the fragrance ends in a beautiful way.
Palatine is a modern violet fragrance that pays olfactory tribute to this nostalgic flower. It is not a madam-like vintage creation, but an airy, innovative and transparent mix of fruits, flowers and woods that should appeal to anyone who loves creamy floral powder fragrances with that certain something. Delicate, understated and minimalist, with a medium presence and good longevity, Palatine is perfect for those who prefer elegant, stylish and masterfully composed creations that can be worn on any occasion and in any season. Simply superb and a clear test recommendation from me! 💜
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