I already introduced you to the creations in the classic series from Fabbrica della Musa last fall (read about it here), but today I would like to turn my attention to the Exclusive Collection. The brand by Barbara Adelmann and her husband, perfumer Hamid Merati-Kashani, initially paid homage to the Italian dolce vita, drawing inspiration from the aromas and scents of the Mediterranean and Italy in particular. With the new Exclusive Collection, the two look beyond the borders of Europe and take us on a journey to foreign cultures and countries.
All of the creations – which are extraits de parfum, by the way – in the new exclusive line were of course penned by the well-known and highly respected perfumer Merati-Kashani, who has already spoiled us with many a treasure trove of fragrances in the past. He was not only responsible for a large number of eaux de parfum for Parfums de Marly, but also for fragrances by Goldfield & Banks, Amouage, BORNTOSTANDOUT and many more.
Île Bourbon – In search of vanilla
In the middle of the Indian Ocean, east of Madagascar, lies a small tropical paradise: the island of Réunion. Formerly known as Île de Bourbon, it is not only a natural wonder with spectacular volcanic landscapes, lush rainforests and paradisiacal beaches – it is also home to one of the most precious spices in the world: Bourbon vanilla.
The history of vanilla on Réunion begins in the 19th century. The vanilla plant originally came from Mexico, but it was only on Réunion that a young slave named Edmond Albius managed to pollinate the plant by hand – a pioneering step that revolutionized vanilla cultivation worldwide. After manual pollination, the pods have to ripen for nine months before they are harvested and refined in an elaborate fermentation process. A laborious process, but the result is worth it: deep black, oily pods with an intense, characteristic aroma that is appreciated worldwide.
Île Bourbon is dedicated to this very special island and bourbon vanilla, combining it with cinnamon, chocolate, cardamom, jasmine and incense. As “an aromatic journey of discovery into untouched nature. An untouched landscape in the middle of the Indian Ocean” is how the brand describes its creation.
A special kind of vanilla – Exclusive Collection
The cocoa used in the composition is said to come from Madagascar. Cocoa is actually grown on the island, particularly in the Sambirano region. This is particularly fine and fruity, with notes of citrus fruits, red berries and spices. No wonder that many luxury chocolate manufacturers use Malagasy cocoa for their creations.
Incidentally, Madagascar is the largest producer of vanilla in the world. Over 80% of global production comes from here, mainly from the Sava region in the north-east of the island. The humid, tropical air and nutrient-rich soil provide the perfect conditions for vanilla plants to thrive.
Île Bourbon opens in a thoroughly appealing way with spicy-hot cinnamon and powdery-tart cocoa. The chocolate in the creation is delicately flowing and dark, yet dry, airy and transparent. The two aforementioned ingredients are soon joined by the protagonist, vanilla. It permeates the composition with its deep, equally dark, subtly smoky and at the same time sweetly spicy nuances, which are so beguiling, so captivating and fascinating that I immediately fall in love. Is Île Bourbon a vanilla to my taste? Yes, absolutely! Absolutely! Fine, refined, distinguished and incredibly elegant, the noble spice in the extrait de parfum is a vanilla of exceptional quality that has been olfactorized in an extraordinarily beautiful way. The creation caresses me gently and cozily. Creamy, powdery facets of jasmine and a delicate coolness of incense ensure an atmospheric and harmonious finish.
I am really, really taken with this fragrance. Île Bourbon is simply wonderful! If you like balanced, calm and rather transparent spice and vanilla compositions, you shouldn’t miss this extrait de parfum from Fabbrica della Musa. I would classify the presence as medium and the longevity is really very good. I had already sprayed the fragrance on the days before for a long-term test and it was still clearly perceptible the following day. The creation was never too much for me. To be honest, I had to sniff my arm several times during the day, I couldn’t get enough of it. 🤤 An absolute recommendation from me and a great start to the Exclusive Collection by Fabbrica della Musa, which sets the bar very high for the other two fragrances. 🤎
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