New, young, sparkling fragrance brands that are really great fun have been arriving from Switzerland recently. I’m thinking here of pernoire and PERFUME.SUCKS, who have the courage to break new ground and create high-quality fragrances with a modern, innovative vibe. The latest export from Switzerland is Bodé Studios. The label was founded in Zurich in 2021 by Lino Bottani and Nicola Deflorin, both of whom have long had a penchant for unusual fragrance compositions. Behind the creations is Swiss perfumer Andreas Wilhelm, whose own line PERFUME.SUCKS, among others, has been catering to the tastes of all those who don’t want to smell like 08/15 for several years.
The same Andreas Wilhelm is also responsible for the creations from Bodé Studios, which bear the exciting names Fuchsrot and Satin Cache. A third fragrance is already waiting in the wings at Aus Liebe zum Duft: Oud Sambac is currently only available for pre-order, but will probably be available in our store shortly. But first I would like to focus on the first two eaux de parfum, which I would like to present to you below.
Fox red – red or green?
The name alone made me incredibly curious. Fox red… it sounds somehow modern, minimalist and fairytale-like. In fairy tales and fables in particular, the fox is often found in this country and is portrayed as a cunning journeyman and/or a clever head. Surprisingly, the character of the fox is described differently from region to region. While the predator in our latitudes is attributed a rather ambivalent, negative nature in stories, the situation is quite different in the Orient.
The fox is often seen here as honorable, grateful and self-sacrificing, and in some fables it is also assigned the role of a metamorph, i.e. a creature that is able to change its outer form. And the scent of fox red is apparently as diverse as the nature of the fox. Anyone who thought that the composition was full of ingredients associated with the color orange or red was far from the truth. The fragrance notes are green pepper, cognac, lemon, violet leaves, mimosa, cypress, iris, guaiac wood, vetiver, tonka bean and leather, which suggests a rather woody-green and woody creation.
Spicy, dry and infused with a gentle spiciness, Fuchsrot starts off with a hint of red. And in fact, the fragrance has as little to do with the color red as it does with the color orange. Delicate, citrusy coniferous woods meet mineral-green nuances, creamy, earthy iris and smoky, powdery guaiac wood. The violet leaves provide a subtle, herbaceous forest note, which is underlined by vetiver. The composition is cool, transparent, dry and light, yet very dense. The individual fragrance notes are closely intertwined in a very harmonious way.
Fuchsrot is an eau de parfum that is very different from what the name suggests. Woody, coniferous, reminiscent of driftwood, grayish, dry and airy, underpinned by earthy-creamy and greenish-herbal nuances, all of which are very delicate, gentle and meditative. A calm and relaxed fragrance that should appeal to anyone who prefers fougère-woody, natural-looking and earthy-soft compositions that can be worn at any time of year and for any occasion. Absolutely exciting and out of the ordinary.
Satin Cache – Bodé Studios
“Satin Cache evokes sensual elegance and the power of nature.” That’s what it says in the press release and in combination with the ingredients mandarin, iris, pink pepper, lavender, cedarwood, tonka bean, vetiver, labdanum (cistus), ambroxan and sandalwood, I imagine a light, airy and clean fragrance with contemplative vibes. I wonder if this will be the case? And what does the name of the composition want to tell us? Satin, well, that’s probably the silky, smooth and extremely soft fabric. And cache? I immediately think of the computer’s buffer memory. But the word cache also exists in French and here one translation would be “cover”. So should it be a covering by name, a kind of satin coat, an enveloping, comforting, warming fragrance?
Satin Cache starts off spicy and citrusy thanks to the delicate, dry pepper spiciness and fruity tangerine peel tartness, which also has tangy, juicy accents. From the outset, the eau de parfum is underpinned by a transparent radiance, an airy softness that I would spontaneously attribute to ambroxan, while lavender infuses the composition with its typical fougere-herbaceous nuances. The cedarwood brings a clean, sweet woodiness to the fragrance, which is underlined by subtly smoky labdanum. Despite its transparency and airiness, this eau de parfum also has a very close-knit feel. The individual fragrance notes flow into one another and leave an almost material impression.
I can therefore easily understand the association with satin, with an enveloping fragrance. Satin Cache has a subtle coolness and is characterized by silky-soft, cozy nuances. At the same time, I find the creation fresh and fruity, and a little herbaceous and tart thanks to lavender. As a result, Satin Cache by Bodé Studios is not a typical fresh-underwear composition, but an elegant and very harmonious, minimalist and comforting skin fragrance that I would classify as an evergreen. Great! 💜
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