The French fragrance house Bon Parfumeur has recently launched a new line: Les Extraits. As the name suggests, it is a series of extraits de parfum – seven to be precise – all of which I would like to introduce to you here, bit by bit. Starting with 104 – Terra Hedera and 107 – Nappa Tuberosa, I will continue with 303 – Marbre Rouge, 502 – Iris Cartagena, 602 – Bois Narcotique Intense, 603 – Cuir Sahib and 903 – Oud Ilam. I can already reveal that one of the creations will soon be featured in our Advent calendar and will therefore be up for grabs. Which one would appeal to you most by name?
Bon Parfumeur on our fragrance blog
The Bon Parfumeur brand is a very welcome guest on this blog. It has been enriching the range of Aus Liebe zum Duft for almost three years. That’s about how long ago I introduced you to the first creations from the classic line of this French niche fragrance label with a penchant for numbers, colors and textures, all of which are characterized by really great, finely balanced and rather transparent compositions. And so I am curious to see how the Les Extraits collection will turn out, once again created by renowned perfumers such as Serge de Oliveira, Corinne Cachen and Sidonie Lancesseur. In the following, I would like to give you a brief overview of my previous contributions to Bon Parfumeur:
- Les Classiques by Bon Parfumeur – Colorful numbers game
- 402 and 601 by Bon Parfumeur – characterized by spices
- 701, 801 and 901 by Bon Parfumeur – All’s well that ends well
- 201 and 401 by Bon Parfumeur – Colorful start of the year
- 602 and 802 by Bon Parfumeur – Woods and Water
104 – Terra Hedera
We start today with number 104 – Terra Hedera. The extrait de parfum is dedicated to the earth (terra) and ivy (hedera), which I find quite exciting. In terms of color, the color green seems to have been the guiding principle for perfumer Corinne Cachen. A “gallop through the Mongolian steppe” served as a source of inspiration, with the earth moving under the hooves of the horses and grasses and flowers swaying in the wind. The fragrance notes are galbanum, mastic, bitter orange, cardamom, hyacinth, ivy, jasmine, aquatic notes, patchouli, ambergris and vetiver.
Fresh, green and cool, 104 – Terra Hedera kicks off the fragrance and definitely meets the color requirements that this extrait de parfum should have. The creation is bright, radiant and airy, with spring-like aquatic moments and an exciting, subtly pungent spiciness. “Green, green, green are all my clothes” seems to sing the 104 of Les Extraits, cheerful, lively, well-disposed towards oneself and one’s surroundings. And although the fragrance appears very light and airy, it is multi-faceted and complex. The notes are tightly interwoven and go hand in hand without any of them breaking out of the structure in any way. Gradually, earthy tendencies emerge, which are certainly due to patchouli and vetiver. They sway in the round dance of the juicy green of galbanum and ivy, the airy, floral-aquatic nuances and the freshness of mastic and bitter orange and blend with these in the most harmonious way.
Fans of green fragrances and beautiful, finely balanced and elegant compositions in the color of hope should definitely add this extrait de parfum to their must-try list. An airy and light-flooded green that is so spring-like, so fresh and friendly that it immediately puts a smile on your face. I would classify the presence of this creation as medium and the longevity is also very good – especially for such a transparent fragrance – and is not part of the Les Extraits line for nothing. A great and absolutely promising start to this new collection from Bon Parfumeur, which makes me more than curious to see what else is in store for me or us.
107 – Nappa Tuberosa
107 – Nappa Tuberosa comes from the currently more than trendy perfumer Serge de Oliveira, who currently seems to be responsible for every third creation that lands on my desk in the form of a sample. Not only does this give me hope for another great fragrance, but also the fact that I have really liked all of his compositions so far. The source of inspiration for 107 – Nappa Tuberosa is “a walk through Grasse, the city of a thousand scents, the city of leather crafts and flowers.” And so the fragrance notes of this extrait de parfum are bergamot, saffron, tuberose, ylang-ylang, suede, papyrus, cashmere wood and patchouli.
Tuberose is sometimes a difficult ingredient in fragrances. You either like it or you hate it. There is probably not much in between. And yet, in 107 – Nappa Tuberosa, I perceive a tuberose that could make even skeptics happy. After all, it shows its absolutely sociable, pleasant and engaging side. Soft, greenish and lucid floral nuances open the fragrance, accompanied by milky ylang-ylang and cotton-soft, flowing suede. These manage to subdue the capricious tuberose, highlighting its fine, delicate facets and showcasing them beautifully. A hint of bergamot freshness provides lightness, while papyrus and patchouli add subtle earthy-woody and greenish accents. At the center, however, is and remains this magnificent and incredibly balanced blend of creamy suede and beguiling tuberose, which is as seductive as it is irresistible.
107 – Nappa Tuberosa is another fragrance by Serge de Oliveira that absolutely captivates me. I wouldn’t call myself the biggest fan of the night hyacinth, but I have grown closer to it in recent years and am always surprised at the exciting facets that can be teased out of the flower. De Oliveira has managed to tame the unruly tuberose. He has provided it with olfactory companions that breathe calm, relaxation and light-heartedness into it and keep its assertiveness in check. The result is an extrait de parfum that is sophisticated, elegant, chic and modern and can be worn on any occasion.
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