In this final article on Essential Parfums, we will be looking at three fragrances, namely Bois Impérial, Bois Impérial Extrait and Néroli Botanica. This concludes this series on Géraldine Archambault’s French niche fragrance brand, whose collection comprises eleven creations. I would like to briefly remind you of the aspects that are of particular importance to the label: In addition to sustainability and environmental friendliness, the fragrance house focuses on the compositions and their creators, the perfumers who, in the eyes of Essential Parfums, are the ones who make a fragrance what it is. Every perfumer is named openly, which is by no means the case with all brands. In addition, each fragrance is accompanied by a few words from the perfumer, which gives a good insight into the thought processes of the creative minds behind the compositions.
In the following, I would also like to give you an overview of my previous articles on Essential Perfumes, so that anyone who hasn’t had the chance to read them yet or would like to read them again has everything quickly and compactly at hand:
- On a mission – The Essential Parfums collection
- Mon Vetiver and Orange X Santal by Essential Parfums
- Divine Vanilla and The Musc by Essential Parfums – Divine Minimalism
- Fig Infusion and Patchouli Mania by Essential Parfums
Bois Impérial – Quentin Bisch
I am a big fan of Quentin Bisch’s creations – I would like to remind you of his work for Marc-Antoine Barrois, Amouage, Parfums de Marly and Plume Impression, to name just a few. The French perfumer has also worked for Essential Parfums, namely for two fragrances: Bois Impérial as an eau de parfum and the recently launched extrait de parfum of the same name. I would like to start with the EdP, which is based on Akigalawood. The fragrance is extracted from patchouli oil and is said to be special, oud-like and floral-woody at the same time. In addition to Akigalawood, which is probably included in the fragrance notes under the heading of woods or patchouli, the composition also contains the ingredients ambroxan, basil, vetiver, Szechuan pepper, grapefruit and floral notes.
Airy, citrusy and peppery woody notes define the opening of Bois Impérial, evoking a cozy freshness from which I sniff out creamy and comforting facets. The interplay of the ingredients is very harmonious, finely balanced and never too much. No fragrance note overshoots the mark in any way or stands out in any other way. The woods are simply wonderful, bright, lucid and nuanced by dry peppery spiciness and tart grapefruit, while greenish herbal facets and gently earthy vetiver add exciting accents. The transparent lightness of the composition underlines the woody freshness and minimalist modernity of Bois Impérial in a wonderful way.
Bois Impérial by Essential Parfums is – it has to be said – the absolute hit in the French niche fragrance brand’s collection and I can certainly understand this enthusiasm. Because the eau de parfum is so radiant, so airy, light and fresh, a unisex all-rounder through and through that can be worn for any occasion and any season. A transparent, wood-based freshie that combines green, earthy and spicy components so wonderfully that the result is a molecular, minimalist and extremely modern fragrance for every occasion. Really great! 🪵
Bois Impérial – Extrait de Parfum
I have already tested the eau de parfum, now it’s the turn of the extrait de parfum, which – I can reveal this much – will be somewhat different from its olfactory predecessor. It may be due to the success of Bois Impérial, the EdP, that Quentin Bisch was once again called to his fragrance organ. The aim was to create an extrait that would reflect the ingredients used in the EdP in a more intense way. A darker version of the original, in which the fragrance notes basil, Szechuan pepper, black pepper, rose, Atlas cedarwood, leather, fir balsam, patchouli, labdanum (cistus), vetiver and woods were used. The press release states: “Bois Impérial Extrait is the quintessence of the original fragrance and takes you to the nocturnal side of the scent. Darker, richer, stronger, it reveals itself in a new sensuality and a rare intensity with twice the concentration of the eau de parfum. An absolute of seduction.” And indeed, the Extrait has a concentration of 32%, while the EdP has 16%.
Bois Impérial Extrait starts darkly into the fragrance and confirms the announcement of the nocturnal version of the original right from the start. While the EdP was light, airy and transparent-fresh from the start, the Extrait is leathery, creaky, dark and powerful. A blend of expressive, intense notes that softens somewhat over time. The rose brings a certain delicacy and lightness to the composition, a task that the delicate blossom has already mastered in many an oud creation. And even though no eaglewood was used in the extrait de parfum, the dark, woody-resinous components of the fragrance are so dense and profound that they seem to be on a par with the exquisite incense. Dry, spicy pepper underpins the leathery, woody, dark notes, while the cedar wood gradually introduces creamy, smooth, balsamic facets to the creation. Sweet, smoky labdanum skilfully rounds off the fragrance.
Bois Impérial Extrait is the darker version of the eau de parfum, more intense, more expressive, darker, more mysterious. If you prefer dense, complex and powerful creations with lush, creaky leather, striking resins and earthy, medicinal woods, the extrait is sure to be a hit. The composition itself is very harmonious, as you would expect from Quentin Bisch. Very modern and rather masculine, Bois Impérial Extrait can be worn at any time of year and for any occasion. An exciting variation of the popular eau de parfum.
Néroli Botanica – Anne Flipo
The essential oil from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree is called neroli, and it is this ingredient that perfumer Anne Flipo has dedicated the fragrance Néroli Botanica to. The fruity-floral fragrance is accompanied by the olfactory companions turmeric, pink pepper, pepper, ginger, jasmine, orange blossom, neroli, vetiver, sandalwood and benzoin resin. However, orange blossom, a relative of the aforementioned neroli, is also at the heart of the composition and, according to Anne Flipo, is the source of inspiration: “I imagined an androgynous orange blossom that you want to smell again and again … rounded off by merging spices and a beguiling heart of jasmine and neroli, its powerful note is combined with a hypnotic, woody base of sandalwood and vetiver.”
Dry, spicy pepper and citrusy, aromatic ginger lend the opening of Néroli Botanica airy, fresh and sparkling nuances, into which the creamy, powdery and greenish, spicy notes of neroli and orange blossom gradually flow. The creation is very light and transparent, lucid, radiant and incredibly gentle. A delicate soapiness pervades the composition, very discreet and subtle, underpinned by smooth, warm sandalwood and surrounded by subtly earthy vetiver. The fragrance gradually fades away with light, calm and soft notes.
Néroli Botanica is a soft, finely balanced, modern and very harmonious (bitter) orange blossom fragrance that combines greenish, creamy, fruity and spicy-floral facets in a very elegant and sophisticated way. Ideal for all those who prefer light, clean and powdery-soft creations with not too much floral oomph and a distinguished, fresh aura. Unisex, suitable for everyday wear and the office, but in my opinion more of an eau de parfum for the warmer months of the year. Not just a must-try for fans of neroli and orange blossom, but also for anyone who loves the above-mentioned characteristics in fragrances. 💛
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