I would like to continue the Essential Parfums review series with the two eaux de parfum Mon Vetiver and Orange X Santal. There are still a few more creations in the queue, as the collection of the French niche fragrance brand is quite extensive. I have the Discovery Set here, which gives a wonderful overview of the label’s creations. In view of the fact that Christmas is now six weeks away, this set could also be a great gift for anyone who would like to discover and get to know new fragrances and brands.
In my last article On a mission – The Essential Parfums collection, I already presented the two Eaux de Parfum Nice Bergamote and Rose Magnetic and also said a few words about the fragrance label itself, which – in addition to exquisite raw materials and exceptional compositions – gives the perfumers of the creations a special status. They are the real stars for the brand, the ones who make the fragrance what it is.
Mon Vetiver – Bruno Jovanovic
Our first candidate today is Mon Vetiver, created by French perfumer Bruno Jovanovic. Born and raised in Paris, Jovanovic studied perfumery at the renowned ISIPCA and then moved to the USA. After an extended stay in New York, he finally returned to Paris and has been working for Firmenich for several years.
Mon Vetiver was intended to be a pared-down fragrance that exudes elegance and sophistication and combines the notes of vetiver and gin. The ingredients of the eau de parfum are therefore lime, vetiver, cashmere wood, lavender, juniper and patchouli. Bruno Jovanovic said of the creation: “The concept of a perfume is above all an idea that I would reduce to a few simple definitions. I imagined a perfume with modern elegance based on an accord of vetiver and gin. An encounter with character, with woody and aromatic accents.”
Mon Vetiver is airy, cool and woody from the very first sniff, exuding the incomparable flair of a delicious gin and tonic. The lime provides tangy, green and tart nuances that combine beautifully with sparkling, coniferous juniper. The subtly earthy, fine-creamy coolness of vetiver and an herbaceous, dry lavender freshness underline these olfactory impressions. Soft and gentle cashmere wood and light patchouli bring the composition to a skillful and atmospheric close.
Mon Vetiver is a creation that makes an incredibly harmonious, distinguished and modern impression on me, which is as transparent as it is profound and has been composed in such a balanced and fine way. This makes the eau de parfum a perfect companion for every occasion and every season, which should appeal to anyone who loves understated, minimalist yet expressive fragrances with a woody, tart and herbaceous finish and hints of gin. Gorgeous! 🩶
Orange X Santal – Natalie Gracia-Cetto
Today’s second composition is called Orange X Santal and was created by the Grasse-born perfumer Natalie Gracia-Cetto. For me, the name of the fragrance already conjures up Christmas associations – no doubt due to the combination of citrus fruits and warm woods – and I am curious to see whether this is just a seasonal wish on my part or a fact. The ingredients bitter orange, sandalwood, orange, basil, oakmoss and cypress certainly leave room for speculation, even though the press release suggests a trip to Italy, summer and sunshine.
I admit that the prospect of Christmas, which is after all just the blink of an eye six weeks away, has clearly colored my association with Orange X Santal. Instead of an opulent spicy-woody-hesperide scent, what we have with this eau de parfum is a bright, transparent and creamy-powdery creation that is airy and light, smelling wonderfully of orange, soft, sweet and juicy. Oak moss and sandalwood underline the sunny citrus fruit with warm, subtly earthy and creamy nuances, from which I also sniff out the light coniferous facets of cypress. Aromatic green accents flash up here and there in the composition, which wonderfully underline the Mediterranean vibes.
Orange X Santal is the ideal fragrance for all fans of oranges with sunny, warm, Mediterranean-style fruity creations with a creamy, powdery undertone. Very elegant, very harmonious and beautifully balanced, this eau de parfum is not only suitable for spring and summer, but also for fall and winter. Uncomplicated, pleasant, very calm and wonderfully decelerated, Orange X Santal is now the fourth fragrance in this collection from Essential Parfums that has completely won me over. Absolute test recommendation! Really great!
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