In the third part on the French niche fragrance brand Marie Jeanne, we look at the Héritage Collection and the fragrances Adèle, Marcel and Léon. I would like to remind you of my two previous articles Marie Jeanne – From Grasse straight to the heart and Vétiver Santal and Iris Pallida by Marie Jeanne – Matières Premières Part II, in which I introduced you to the label itself and the brand’s first line, which revolves around special, fragrance-giving raw materials. Today, the Héritage Collection is on the agenda and with it three exciting fragrances, all of which have first names.
Héritage Collection – The legacy of Marie Jeanne
The Héritage Collection is inspired by the legacy of brand founder Georges Maubert. Born into a family that has been involved in fragrances and perfumes for generations and owns the renowned fragrance manufacturer Robertet, Georges Maubert not only has a great name in the perfume business, but also a special connection to the tradition of perfume craftsmanship and the small town of Grasse in the south of France.
This is where Robertet is based, where Marie Jeanne fragrances are produced and where Georges Maubert was born. The name of the label is that of his grandmother, “who was very attached to the town of Grasse and its region. He would like to take up this heritage in his creations. His inspiration comes from the scents of his childhood, his garden and the people around him. He draws on the old formulas that have been passed down from generation to generation.”
Adèle – Eau Fraîche
Our first fragrance of the day is Adèle. Visually, there is a difference to the Matières Premières creations presented last time, because the label of the Héritage Collection and therefore also of Adèle is white and not dark green. Adèle is also no longer an eau de parfum, but an eau fraîche, i.e. a lighter concentration that should have a fresher, more invigorating and airier effect. The perfumer of the fragrance is Alexis Dadier, of course employed by Robertet, who combined the ingredients bergamot, verbena, mandarin, iris, galbanum, tomato leaves, vetiver and oakmoss for Adèle. Unfortunately, I was unable to find out whether the female first name of the creations has a direct connection to the Maubert family. Actually, I very much assume that this is the case. If I receive any further information here, I will be happy to provide it.
Refreshing and sparkling, Adèle opens with colourful, tart hesperides and greenish-citrusy verbena, revealing lively, vitalizing and energetic accents right from the start that can provide a kick of freshness on a hot summer’s day. Very light, airy and green, the fragrance continues with crisp, juicy, leafy nuances that are still underpinned by tangy, tart citrus fruits. The iris gradually brings soft, powdery facets into play, soothing the freshness of the fragrance, while the creation is rounded off with creamy, earthy vetiver and oakmoss.
Adèle could be just the thing for all fans of olfactory energy boosters in lush green with a tangy citrus undertone. As an eau fraîche, Marie Jeanne’s composition is naturally not a high performer, but very transparent and airy with a light to medium presence. Perfect for all those who like a quick scent and don’t want to smell like one perfume all day long, but rather like to apply several creations throughout the day. Very summery, uncomplicated and an absolute all-rounder. 🌿
Marcel – Héritage Collection
Eau de Cologne Marcel was created by perfumer Karine Vinchon-Spehner, who has worked for renowned fragrance brands such as Amouage, Xerjoff, L’Artisan Parfumeur and Memo Paris, and of course for Robertet. Unfortunately, I don’t currently know which Marcel is to be honored with the fragrance, which combines the ingredients bergamot, blood orange, rosemary, petitgrain, ylang-ylang, lavender, leather, patchouli, vetiver, cedarwood and tonka bean.
Cologne-like, sparkling and fresh, Marcel opens with tart bergamot and juicy blood orange, accompanied by a very airy and powdery scent right from the start. Marcel is classic, mature and full of integrity, a fragrance that radiates a wonderful sense of calm and relaxation right from the start. Gradually, the creation becomes creamier, smoother, even if the hesperides are still easily sniffable. Ylang-ylang brings milky-sweet facets into play, which are accompanied by aromatic herbal notes and spicy-fruity petitgrain. Together with the leather, this results in wonderfully wild leathery aspects that blend smoothly and harmoniously into the fragrance. In the base, the coumarin nuances of tonka bean, warm cedarwood and the creamy woody accents of patchouli and vetiver provide an atmospheric and cozy rounding.
Marcel is a great and chypre-like eau de cologne that has a certain vintage touch, but is very modern, elegant and stylish. A tangy, fresh opening is followed by a creamy, leathery heart and a woody, spicy finish, giving the creation an extremely exciting development. Finely balanced and beautifully composed, Marcel is a unisex cologne that should appeal to anyone who likes calm and relaxed fragrances with the above-mentioned olfactory components. In terms of season, it’s more for warmer days, but in terms of opportunity, it’s an absolute all-rounder.
Léon – Children’s Fragrance
Léon is also known as Parfum Enfant or Children’s Fragrance. I don’t know exactly why children should wear the fragrance – the website states that the eau de cologne is suitable for children aged 3 and over – but that’s up to the parents. To be honest, I would not spray my children – now 6 and 8 years old – with perfume and have never done so. Léon can of course also be used by adults. Perfumer Mylène Alran created the fragrance “reminiscent of the wonderful clean scent of babies” from the ingredients bergamot, cedarwood, honeysuckle, neroli, white musk and sandalwood.
Léon is very light, transparent and ethereal. Delicately tart bergamot and clean cedarwood meet the milky, fruity nuances of neroli and greenish-sweet honeysuckle. It is a fine, powdery-chin scent that seems barely tangible, very soft, comforting and subtle. In fact, I can very well understand the association of skin that the press release mentioned, even if the creation lacks the typical baby powder facets that are commonly associated with infants and small children. No, Léon is bright, crystalline, powdery yes, but different, delicately fruity, sweet and unpretentious. No cliché is served here, but an atmospheric, cozy and skintight-soft melange is created, which is warmed up in the base by light musk and subtly velvety sandalwood.
Léon is tender, gentle, pure. A fragrance that is close to the skin and remains so, which has no profound, complex structure, but is relatively straightforward. I would classify the presence as light, the durability is the same. Rather summery, but suitable for the office and everyday use, this eau de cologne is perfect for anyone who prefers understated, subtle and very quiet creations with a fruity, floral and powdery-clean character.
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