The two eaux de parfum Vétiver Santal and Iris Pallida by the French niche fragrance brand Marie Jeanne are the focus of this review today, after I already introduced you to Tonka Lavande and Jasmin Patchouli in my last post (read it here). And, of course, the label itself, which was founded ten years ago by Georges Maubert, scion of the founding family of the Robertet fragrance company.
Once again, the Matières Premières line is the topic today, before I present the Héritage Collection and finally the Aromatherapy Collection in my next article. As a reminder, the Matière Premières Collection is all about reduced, minimalist and clear creations that place one or two raw materials at the center of the olfactory composition. The protagonists are mentioned by name, which is why it is clear that today we are dealing with a blend of vetiver and sandalwood as well as a fragrance based on the noble iris.
Vétiver Santal – Earthy sandal cream
According to my research, the perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur was responsible for the entire Matières Premières collection and thus also created Vétiver Santal. She achieved this with the help of the fragrance notes bergamot, petitgrain, lemon, sandalwood, vetiver, cypress, patchouli and benzoin resin, which suggest a fresh, woody and earthy eau de parfum.
The nutty scent of vetiver and milky sandalwood are fresh and powerful at the same time, combining with the sweet notes of benzoin and the earthy notes of patchouli. The result is a perfume that combines elegance and modernity.
Vétiver Santal starts off citrusy and fresh, which is hardly surprising given the ingredients. I clearly perceive tart fruit peel nuances that combine with spicy green and herbaceous petitgrain. The cypress emphasizes the Hesperides accents with its fresh and woody coniferous woodiness, into which the earthy, cool root notes of the vetiver gradually mingle. The creation is very clear, invigorating and full of energy, yet transparent and airy.
The sandalwood gradually lends the fragrance warmer, creamy aspects that are velvety, soft and wonderfully comforting. These soothe the coolness, earthiness and woody facets of the composition, creating a cozy atmosphere. Delicate citrus notes are still perceptible, combining with the milky-woody and powdery-sweet nuances to create a really great and finely balanced fragrance. As a rather quiet representative of its kind, Vétiver Santal is a pleasant and uncomplicated companion for all occasions. A very balanced composition, very elegant and wonderfully calm. Really great! 💚
Iris Pallida – A heart for the iris
As a self-confessed iris fan, I am particularly looking forward to Iris Pallida. I love all the olfactory facets of the elegant iris, from creamy, powdery to lipsticky, from woody and earthy to leathery. I like everything and therefore find it all the more beautiful that Marie Jeanne’s Matières Premières collection has its own creation based on the noble flowering plant. Perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur was also at the helm here and used the ingredients iris, hazelnut, cashmeran, rose, sandalwood, labdanum (cistus), patchouli and ambroxan for the eau de parfum.
Oh, I’m not getting disappointed. Iris Pallida opens with a powdery carrot sweetness, which is soon joined by the gourmand nuances of roasted hazelnuts. Right from the start, cashmeran provides a cottony fluffiness that is so soft and cuddly that you will want to snuggle up to it. Creamy and lipsticky, it continues, illuminated by lucid rose airiness that breathes lightness and transparency into the creation. As the fragrance progresses, the iris develops velvety-woody facets in which smoky-sweet labdanum blends with the finest sandal milk and wild, smooth ambroxan, rounded off by creamy, earthy patchouli.
Iris Pallida is an iris fragrance par excellence and is modern, elegant and very harmonious from the top to the base. A light, soft, transparent and powdery-crystalline creation that beautifully expresses all facets of the iris. If you are as addicted to the precious raw material as I am, you should definitely put this everyday and office fragrance on your must-try, if not your must-have list. 💚 Absolute test recommendation!
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