In yesterday’s post Le Galion – Reunion with old friends, I provided you with all sorts of important information about the traditional French fragrance house with a Galleon connection and presented a first eau de parfum – Sortilège – on top. Today, without further ado, I’d like to get straight into reviewing three more fragrances, Sovereign, Sang Bleu and L’Astre.
Sovereign – Le Galion
Perfumer Franck Bouis created the Sovereign fragrance in 2015 as a tribute to the man who made the Le Galion fragrance house world-famous: Paul Vacher. This eau de parfum is dedicated to him, and it is not for nothing that it bears the name Sovereign. It could be a large, imposing composition that the brand, which was revitalized in 2014, is presenting to us here. The ingredients pink pepper, black pepper, rose, iris, myrrh, woods, agarwood (oud), patchouli, cedarwood and guaiac wood all point in this direction, and the perfumer’s words speak for themselves:
I envisioned a fragrance with large proportions, truly larger than life, a scent for those who shine bright and turn heads. First the spices burst forth, then comes the dazzling rose – an allusion to the French chic of the house. All these fragrances revolve around a never-ending, luxurious base of ambergris, woods and resins. – Franck Bouis
In the opening of Sovereign, a gentle peppery spiciness combines with airy, lucid rose and the fine powdery nuances of iris to evoke an elegant and distinguished fragrance right from the top note, into which darker, resinous-balsamic and sweet facets gradually flow. Myrrh is just as evident here as a colourful bouquet of velvety woods and powdery guaiac wood, which conjures up a delicate violet note in the composition. Splendid! The oud reveals unusually restrained traits. It blends in with the colourful array of warm and comforting woods, accentuating rather than dominating. An elegant and finely balanced creation with spicy, woody and oriental notes that is less opulent than expected. Sovereign by Le Galion is suitable for every occasion and every season.
Sang Bleu – Blue blood
In 2016, Le Galion launched the eau de parfum Sang Bleu, which translates as “blue blood”. The perfumer of the creation was Jean-Christophe Hérault, who combined the ingredients bergamot, orange, lemon, rosemary, eucalyptus, tarragon, geranium, jasmine, rose, violet, pink pepper, clove, cedarwood, patchouli, sandalwood and vetiver. Apparently, Sang Bleu is more or less a product of chance. When developing the fragrance Eau Noble in the 1970s, the brand owner and perfumer at the time, Paul Vacher, noted a formula that had not yet been perfected and was not used for the aforementioned Eau Noble, but was ultimately used by Jean-Christophe Hérault to create Sang Bleu.
Sang Bleu is the physical energy that pulsates beneath good manners. There is a constant tension between the refined side, the aromatic freshness, and the wild, rough side, which consists of the animalism of spices, jasmine, woods and musk. – Jean-Christophe Hérault
Sang Bleu is refreshing and dynamic right from the start. Very lucid, radiant, a little citrusy-tart, accompanied by a fine eucalyptus coolness and accentuated by herbs. A maritime hint pervades the composition, very unobtrusive and subtle, determined by salty green rosemary and aromatic tarragon. Violet and jasmine bring soft and powdery notes to the creation, while the rose offers delicate, soapy and transparent moments. Accompanied by a subtle peppery spiciness, the fragrance slowly glides into the base, in which clean and creamy woods and earthy nuances gradually provide comforting, warm aspects. Sang Bleu is sophisticated, elegant and classic, yet at the same time extremely modern and timeless. A masculine fragrance with lucid barbershop vibes and a tart, fresh, gently powdery character that is dynamic and revitalizing. A beautiful eau de parfum that is perfect for the warmer months of the year, but is actually far too good for seasonal restrictions. So: wear it all year round and for every occasion. Absolute test recommendation!
L’Astre – Scent of the star
L’Astre is dedicated to a very special Hollywood star: Ava Gardner. The US actress, who lived from 1922 to 1990, was already a legend during her lifetime. Paul Vacher made her the advertising face of the Eau de Parfum Sortilège, the revised and modernized version of which I already presented to you in my last article. It was a creation loved by celebrities worldwide, worn by stars such as Marilyn Monroe and Ava Gardner, celebrating the debauched New York nightlife of high society.
In collaboration with the Ava Gardner Trust, a charitable foundation founded by the actress herself in the mid-1980s and which still supports selected institutions today, the fragrance L’Astre was created, for which perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux selected the ingredients Fennel, cardamom, ginger, thyme, jasmine, ylang-ylang, tuberose, orange blossom, ambergris, suede, tolu balsam and Bourbon vanilla.
L’Astre reveals sophisticated, opulent and glamorous traits from the very beginning. A lush bouquet of white flowers fills the top note of the eau de parfum from Le Galion. Greenish tuberose combines with tropical, milky ylang-ylang and fruity, creamy orange blossom, accompanied by the beguiling notes of jasmine. Gentle spicy and aromatic accents underline the floral quartet, I particularly notice the aniseed-like coolness of the fennel, the herbaceous, citrusy-spicy nuances of thyme and ginger. They create tension and airiness and prevent the magnificent white bloomers from appearing too heavy and overloaded. Gradually, warm accents are added that carry balsamic and delicately leathery notes. The tolu balsam adds a few creamy, vanilla notes that round off the composition perfectly. A fragrance that perfectly masters the balancing act between classic and modern. Elegant, glamorous and self-assured, L’Astre enters the olfactory stage with a harmonious presence and outstanding longevity. A creation for special occasions that loves to make a grand entrance. Perfect for all lovers of white floral fragrances, of powerful floral compositions with an expressive personality. ❤️
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