Today I would like to present you the 1988 and 2010 Eaux de Parfum by Rosendo Mateu, after we already had a closer look at the first two creations of the new line in my article Olfactory Journeys by Rosendo Mateu – 1968 and 1970 last week. The latter fragrance in particular absolutely thrilled me with its wonderfully dark and deep tonka bean notes. If you have a soft spot for the black spice, you should definitely put 1970 on your must-try list.
1988 – New York
In 1988, the perfumer Rosendo Mateu left France for the USA. His destination was the vibrant East Coast metropolis of New York, which had developed into a new centre of perfumery. The New York perfume scene was modern, creative and innovative, so very different from the traditional fragrance world in France. Rosendo Mateu was employed by Puig at the time and was commissioned to develop a line of fragrances for the New York-based fashion company Carolina Herrera, among other things.
The late 1980s on the American East Coast were reflected by Rosendo Mateu with a fragrance that bears the three catchwords of 1988 Ozone, Mastery and Modernity. 1988 is intended to represent “self-confidence and mastery” through a maritime character.
With the ingredients citric notes, ozonic notes, maritime notes, woody notes, salty notes, spices and white musk unites the eau de parfum 1988 a rich selection of airy marine facets, and I’m curious to see how I like the fragrance. Experience has shown that aquatic creations don’t have such an easy time winning me over 😉.
1988 is bright, airy, light and ethereal. From the very beginning, I perceive an initially subtle marine note that soon becomes more striking, sometimes salty and maritime, sometimes characterized by a turquoise-blue freshness. An ozonic coolness pervades the creation, but at the same time I also perceive warm, soft, almost mineral-like accents. I sniff out the dry spiciness of pepper, which is probably hidden under the generic term spices in the list of ingredients. Gradually, the maritime facets become darker, deeper and more present. The saltiness increases, while the fragrance remains light and airy overall. 1988 is a sporty, dynamic and fresh marine fragrance that can be worn on warmer days for any occasion. Unisex, with a masculine tendency. An uncomplicated and summery freshie that should not only appeal to avowed fans of maritime creations. 🌊
2010 – Year of the Master
2010 was another highlight in the life of Rosendo Mateu. This year marked his appointment as a Maîte Parfumeur, which gave his previous works and his love of the world of fragrances additional recognition. An honour that is bestowed on very few perfumers and is therefore something very special.
The 2010 fragrance is inspired by his travels to Asia and the Orient. Here, Rosendo Mateu deepened his knowledge of different raw materials, got to know new ingredients and absorbed the different fragrances of the respective countries. The bottle bears the three words Oriental, Heritage and Tradition. The ingredients are aromatic notes, woods, cedarwood, floral notes, spices, resins, balsamic notes, saffron, musk and gourmand notes.
Lush saffron opens 2010, dark, mysterious and infused with leathery-medicinal facets that are quite present from the start. It is the second fragrance from the line that exudes a certain intensity from the first sniff after the wonderful Tonka fragrance of 1970, while the two eaux de parfum of 1968 and 1988 were light and airy from top to base. In 2010, the expressive, spicy and medicinal notes last a long time. A fine, creamy sweetness underpins and soothes the distinctive saffron as it progresses, which I assume is due to the flowers, resins and/or balsamic nuances. I also sniff out soft gourmand praline facets, which intensify the sweetness without taking away the deep spiciness of the creation. Dark woody accents lend the composition a solid framework and persistence in the finish before the fragrance gradually fades away. An oriental spice fragrance with a strong saffron note that gradually becomes sweet and woody. Actually wearable for any occasion, for me rather a perfume for the cooler season. A great and powerful conclusion to this special collection, which will hopefully be expanded in the future.
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