On Monday and Tuesday, I already published my interview with Lutz Herrmann of J.F. Schwarzlose (read here and here), so today I would like to introduce you to the recently launched and arrived at Aus Liebe zum Duft Eau de Parfum Rosa Centifolia, about which Lutz has already told us a thing or two.
Rosa Centifolia – the original
Rosa Centifolia is a legendary and internationally known and loved creation of the old Berlin brand J.F. Schwarzlose. The original dates from 1912. Insane, isn’t it? Rosa Centifolia was first introduced to the market no less than 110 years ago. The advertising face of the fragrance at the time was the dancer and actress Edmonde Guy, a silent film star with black hair and blood-red lips. I have included pictures of the ad and the original bottle below.
Success was guaranteed. Rosa Centifolia became a bestseller and unfortunately – like the entire J.F. Schwarzlose fragrance house after its closure – fell into oblivion. Until Lutz Herrmann took on the manufactory in 2012 and relaunched the fragrances of the Berlin label. As he revealed to us in the interview, Rosa Centifolia was a fragrance that took perfumer Véronique Nyberg and him a full ten years to relaunch. So legendary was the original and so great the challenge to create a modern Rosa Centifolia.
One that can rival the old original version and still fits into the here and now. Not only from the olfactory point of view, but also in terms of legal requirements. Because, as Lutz revealed to us, many of the ingredients used back then may of course no longer be used today. In addition, as with all original Schwarzlose creations, there was no recipe for the perfume, so Véronique Nyberg had to rely entirely on her nose and her skills, which she has already succeeded in doing several times since 2012.
© J.F.S. Parfums Berlin GmbH & Co.KG
Arrived in the here and now: Rosa Centifolia
The original fragrance was intense, lush and extraordinary. The modern Rosa Centifolia is intended to pick up on these same characteristics, but to reproduce them in a contemporary form. In this way, J.F. Schwarzlose not only took on a legendary fragrance from the original manufactory, but also dedicated itself to a flower that has a particularly high status in perfumery. Also in ornamental and cottage gardens, “the hundred-leaved” – the English translation of the epithet Centifolia – is highly valued. Its densely double flower is studded with countless individual petals and exudes an inimitable and lovely rose fragrance.
The iconic Rose Centifolia beats at the heart of some of the world’s most prestigious perfumes. Its flowers are always harvested in the freshness of the early morning so that hundreds of aromatic molecules can contribute to Rosa Centifolia’s exceptionally rich odor profile. Elegant pastel nuances are considered characteristic, to which, among other things, a lemony facet and a very light pepper effect give structure and volume. In the tenth black lotus composition, the pink centifolia absolute develops a transparent-cool note with earthy-sensual intensity that is anything but fleeting.
Véronique Nyberg combines the following fragrance notes in the modern version of Rosa Centifolia: petitgrain, cardamom, osmanthus, Provence rose, geranium, jasmine, vetiver, myrrh and sandalwood.
The rose of today
Rosa Centifolia opens with cool, greenish-citrus notes that are fresh and spicy at the same time. Osmanthus brings a touch of velvety-floral peach fruitiness to the creation, but soon the eau de parfum dives into darker and smoky-earthy realms. Myrrh and vetiver ensnare the queen of the creation, a noble and at the same time enchanting rose that gives the fragrance lightness, transparency and a certain sweetness.
Sometimes citrusy, sometimes honey-sweet, sometimes beguiling, the Provence rose shows itself in Rosa Centifolia, which seems to feel quite at home in the company of the rather gloomy fragrance companions. Jasmine provides a delicate and floral creaminess in the background, which wonderfully softens the coolness of the composition. Only at the end do somewhat warmer aspects appear, which are certainly due to the sandalwood, which with its usual elegant and velvety-woody warmth provides a wonderful fragrance finish.
Rosa Centifolia by J.F. Schwarzlose pleases me excellently, and that means something, because usually I am often rather sceptical about the queen of flowers. But the new Eau de Parfum is for me a wonderful example of how the fragrance note rose can be implemented in a fascinating way. Rosa Centifolia does indeed appear cool, sometimes almost metallic-glossy, and yet still possesses this very special classic and also a little nostalgic aura, without appearing even slightly dusty. No, Rosa Centifolia is modern, elegant, timeless and noble, a rose fragrance that is inimitable, incomparable and simply beautiful. My conclusion: Absolutely recommendable! You need to try it! 🙂 🙂
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