We continue with ArteOlfatto and the fragrances Primero Marocaine and Sublime Molécule, after I was able to introduce you to the magnificent floral-spice combination Yakamoz and the powdery-creamy Hesperides orange blossom Calar del Sole yesterday (read more here). The niche fragrance brand based in Milan surprises and convinces me again and again with its compositions, and so I am curious to see which treasures I have in front of me today.
Primero Marocaine – Olfactory Hashish
ArteOlfatto seems to have a weakness for the aforementioned intoxicant, because in addition to the newly launched Primero Marocaine , there is already a creation called Black Hashish, which came onto the market in 2014 and which I have also already reviewed (read here).
As my research has shown, Primero is a Moroccan hashish variety that is characterized by a high THC content and increases in volume when heated. Primero seems to be a higher-quality hashish variety, although the qualities here probably also vary.
Of course, Primero Marocaine from ArteOlfatto does not actually contain intoxicating ingredients, but the fragrance is supposed to provide rapture and perhaps also rapture. You will soon find out to what extent this is true. In any case, the fragrance notes already speak a lush language: cinnamon, nutmeg, saffron, tobacco, cannabis, patchouli, cedarwood, vetiver, sandalwood, guaiac wood, tonka bean, leather, amber, musk and vanilla point the way to a fragrance that could be a real hit.
Moroccan fragrance dreams
Primero Marocaine is deep gold and lush at the start of the aroma. Rich spices like nutmeg and saffron meet the radiant honey sweetness of the tobacco, which seems so rich and delicately flowing. Soon, the herbaceous notes of cannabis, infused with a subtle bitterness, appear, giving the fragrance a new olfactory direction.
In ArteOlfatto’s creation, guaiac wood, vetiver and patchouli provide smoky, earthy and dry woody facets that darken the former golden hue, giving it additional depth and a hint of gloom. Black is the leather that subsequently insinuates itself into the fragrance. Finally, thanks to vanilla and ambergris, Primero Marocaine ends with a delicate, sweet and warm underpinning.
Primero Marocaine is a lush and warm fragrance that plays with notes of spices, tobacco and cannabis, accompanied by woody, earthy and smoky nuances. A powerful creation from the house of ArteOlfatto. Probably not a fragrance for everyone, because I would not describe the Extrait de Parfum as pleasing. You have to like the opulence, the presence and also the sometimes distinct astringency of the creation. But if these conditions are right, it could well be the great love. 🙂
Sublime Molécule – Smoke and Leather
What is hidden under the term Sublime Molécule was not as obvious as with the other three previous fragrances, for which a short research already led me to the goal. But even with our last candidate for the time being from ArtOlfatto, I finally came to a conclusion – after not too long – about what the name might actually be trying to tell us.
The chemical term sublimation is understood to mean – and I quote Wikipedia because they explained it so well – “the process of the immediate transition of a substance from the solid to the gaseous state of aggregation without first liquefying”. One could therefore assume that such a molecule, which has undergone precisely this process, inspired the creation. But it is also possible that Sublime Molécule means nothing other than “excellent molecule” in the sense of great, fantastic and extraordinary. As a natural scientist, I naturally think that my first conclusion could make sense. But I can’t rule out the second either 😉
But what I don’t believe is that ArteOlfatto is offering us a molecular fragrance in the style of Escentric Molecules, Zarkoparfumes, etc. Or is it? Or is it? The scents of mandarin, grapefruit, pink pepper, coriander, violet leaves, rose, iris, jasmine, tiare, cedarwood, musk, vanilla, benzoin, myrrh, leather, ambergris and musk suggest a lush, oriental composition.
Excellent molecule
Smoky leather determines the opening of Sublime Molécule from ArteOlfatto, underpinned by a gentle hesperidic coolness and the dark peppery pungency of spices. The creation is thoroughly intense and present, in which a facet gradually emerges that reminds me of Chinese gunpowder tea.
Greenish, herbaceous and tangy, infused with a smokiness that is not to be despised, which smells exactly like those green tea balls or their infusion. So far, I have searched in vain for warmth in the Extrait de Parfum. The scent is still cool and dark. Dry woods provide additional grounding. Densely packed and extremely complex, Sublime Molécule strides through the fragrance course, but also full of pride and grace.
Sublime Molécule is a present and intense spicy-smoky woody fragrance that is dark, rough and exceedingly distinctive. Another creation that was created with edges and corners. It is not a pleasing fragrance companion, but one that stands out, makes a statement and is not found in the niche for nothing. Does this great gunpowder tea note also develop on your skin? I’d be really interested to know. In my eyes, the Extrait de Parfum by ArteOlfatto is more of a fragrance for the evening or special occasions, but I can definitely imagine wearing it all year round. 🙂
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